General Pest Control
Do I need to treat the interior and exterior, or will exterior only treatments work?
Are the treatments harmful to my children or pets?
How long will the service visit take?
What happens to pests during the colder, winter months?
I have roaches but I keep a clean house. Why do I still see them?
How do cockroaches make asthma worse or my family sick?
What do cockroaches eat?
What can I do about spiders?
- Exclusion: Caulk cracks and holes or install screens for those areas too large to caulk (vent pipes, chimneys, etc…)
- Tree and Shrub Trimming: Since insects often harbor in plants, it is an excellent food source for spiders. Trimming bushes and pruning trees so that no branches are touching the structure will reduce the number of spiders making it to the interior.
- Reduce Habitats: Wood piles, paper products, and/or boxes make great habitats for spiders. Make sure you have a location away from the main structure for storage of these materials.
- Lighting: Exterior lights on at night attract all sorts of insects. This is a great place for spiders to spin webs to trap prey for food. When possible, try to limit lights at night.
- Spider Control Applications: When possible, you can physically remove spiders and their eggs sacks while cleaning with a vacuum. However, this is after-the-fact, not a preventive method of spider control. The best way to control spiders is to apply a labeled spider control material. This low-volume spray application will provide protection as it not only kills spiders it contacts, but provides some residual control for a month or better in areas that spiders frequent. Areas that have lots of spider activity around overhangs and exterior lights, etc. are a great place to spray these materials. Applying these materials also helps with reducing other insect populations, which in turn, reduces food sources for spiders. Interior applications of spider control can be applied to problem areas such as attics, garages, crawl spaces, and storage areas.
How will I know if my home is infested?
They can be differentiated from winged ants by their straight antennae, uniform waist, and wings of equal size. Ants have elbowed antennae, constricted waists and forewings that are longer than the hind wings. Swarmers emerging from tree stumps, woodpiles, railroad ties and other outdoor locations are not necessarily cause for concern, and do not necessarily mean that the structure, itself, is infested.
Another indicator of a termite problem is pencil-wide mud foraging tubes extending over foundation walls, support piers, sill plates, floor joists, headers and subfloors. Termites construct these mud “shelter” tubes as they travel between their underground colonies and the structure. Termite damaged wood is usually hollowed out along the grain, with bits of dried mud or soil lining the feeding galleries. Wood damaged by moisture or other types of insects (e.g., carpenter ants) will not have this appearance. There will often be no sign of the termites themselves — small, creamy-white insects with an “ant-like” appearance. An infestation can go undetected for years, hidden behind drywall, paneling, floor coverings, insulation, and other obstructions.
Termite feeding, and the resultant damage, can even progress undetected in wood that is exposed, because the outer surface is usually left intact. Confirmation of infestation often requires the keen eye of an experienced termite inspector. However, even the most experienced termite inspector can overlook damage which is hidden.